I'm climbing into the southern reaches of the Peak District on this walk, and it's all about the views. I am threading my way along the triangle of land between the River Derwent to my right and the River Ecclesbourne to my left. The rivers define broad sweeping valleys, while in between, the smaller streams of Black Brook, Lumb Brook and Shipley Brook have carved out their own dips in the landscape. Grassy meadows are draped over all these voluptuous curves like green velvet, with trees in pompom clumps.
It's the perfect weather to appreciate all this springtime beauty. From the moment I step out of the car, I know it's going to be a good walk.
This signpost is where I got to last time. I carry on past the Bluebell pub in Farnah Green, and turn left to find the Lumb Brook, which is down in a particularly steep, tree-lined valley. The path runs along the top, and you feel as if you are up in the canopy of a forest.
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| Lumb Valley trees |
The next field is noisy with sheep, although most of them are hiding in the shady trees by the brook. These two lambs obligingly pose for me.
At a small ford, a welly-clad lady is watching her dog have a paddle. I cross the A517 and head up Longwalls Lane. At first this is a paved road, passing a row of terraced cottages and the rather more imposing Holly House, which has the most enormous monkey puzzle trees I have ever seen.
Then the lane turns into a lumpy track, continuing up the ridge between banks of bushes and bluebells. The Old Roads of Derbyshire remarks that these "slabs of bedrock" suggest "erosion caused by heavy use". There's no such heavy use today; I meet one cyclist.
The views open out to the valleys on either side. I keep trying to drink it all in.
Crowtrees Farm is tucked into a little dip in the fields, surrounded by dandelions. They are everywhere. The path is easy to follow - a clearly worn line across the grass, with the radio masts of Alport Heights always in view.
I pause to look back the way I've come...
...and I'm getting close to my destination now. I come out onto a tarmacked lane which takes me around the hill to the car park entrance. There is some debate about the name: the Ordnance Survey marks it as Alport Height, whereas the National Trust has plumped for Alport Heights. Another map I've seen simply calls it Alport Hill.
Whatever you call it, this is simply stunning. I can see for miles and miles and miles. There's even some faint blue humps in the far distance which I think - I zoom out on the map - must be Shropshire. Sure enough, when I find the topograph, it marks The Wrekin and The Long Mynd.
It also labels five power stations of the Trent Valley. Only Willington and Ratcliffe on Soar are still standing now. I eat my lunch next to a small quarried area with a standing stone.
Reluctantly leaving the top of Alport Heights, I make my way to the small hamlet of Spout, just below it. Easy to see how it got its name.
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| A spout. In Spout. |
It's easy walking now, steadily downhill on a quiet lane to Shottle. Shottle seems to consist of an old school, a disused Baptist chapel, a rather lonely-looking Anglican church, and not much else. There's also a train station called Shottle on the Ecclesbourne Valley Railway, but that's two miles away, much closer to Turnditch. It's an odd little place - you feel that it must have supported a much greater population at some point.
I find an old newspaper article referring to St Lawrence as "the church that wouldn't die", but it looks perilously close to doing so again. I peer through the dusty window at the empty pews.
I like the blue trim of the Baptist chapel, and the hand thrust firmly out of one corner. Most non-conformist chapels in this area are Methodist, but the Baptists evidently had a strong presence around Wirksworth; there's an interesting history of their early years here.
The grass in the next fields has been mowed into long tumbled lines. A couple of tractors are buzzing around, collecting it into bales. I pass through the farmyard of Hollyseat, which looks very smart from the front, then follow the single-track lane down to Blackbrook. I can see back across to where I parked - there's a radio mast and a crane which are useful landmarks - but it looks awfully high. Do I really have to climb up that hill?
Here, the Black Brook goes underneath the road and then seems to come out from underneath a tree. That's a clever trick.
The next farm offers pigeon supplies. It is called Chapel House Farm, and sure enough, there's a building next to it that could once have been a chapel - stone-built, with a solid wooden door. A man is standing outside so I don't take a photo. You can see it on Wikimedia Commons.
When I climb over a stile and spot this pair of ponies, I feel bad about disturbing them. But I don't! They can't be bothered to move from their sunny spot.
I cross the A517 and the Lumb Brook again, and then it's back uphill. But it's not that bad. I climb over the stone steps at the end of the Lumb valley and find a path which weaves between a few houses in Farnah Green. It's much easier to see from the other end, where it's signposted off the road.
And here I am, back at the car. It has indeed been an excellent walk.
Portway: Farnah Green to Alport Heights
11 miles / 18 km - 27 April 2026
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