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Derwent Valley: a canal, a cake, and some churches

It was a beautiful sunny day. So beautiful, in fact, that the small car park in Whatstandwell was filling up even at 10:00 on a Monday morning. Still, there weren't too many people around as I set off along the Cromford Canal.


The Derwent Valley Heritage Way runs along the canal towpath for this section, so I knew it would be a lot flatter than my previous walk! The plan was to head up to Holloway and Lea first, rejoining the canal at Cromford to walk back to Whatstandwell.


So, after a short section on the towpath, I turned right to join the road to Holloway. This was where Florence Nightingale grew up. I passed Nightingale Lodge and the well-manicured grounds of Nightingale Park. The house she actually lived in is called Lea Hurst.



It was a short but steep climb up to Holloway village. Church Street then ran along the ridge, with glorious views across the countryside. It took me past the village post office, the Methodist Church, the public toilets, and the Anglican Church.

Post office

Methodist Church


I was amused to read that the church in Holloway was built because the villagers objected to paying rates to Ashover Parish. They managed to build Christ Church in the early 20th century. Inside, it had an austere look, with little by way of decoration. A comment in the visitors book praised the "amazing acoustics". I don't usually start singing solos in strange churches, but I tried a few verses of "Holy, Holy, Holy" and agreed; despite my very average voice, the hymn sounded lovely.




A footpath up through a beech wood brought me to Lea Gardens. I'd had a very nice coffee and cake here a few years ago, and had carefully timed my arrival today to repeat the experience. It did not disappoint.


Fortified with caffeine and sugar, I looked at the map and decided I could add a mile to the walk and visit Dethick church as well, achieving my target of walking to 100 churches. It was a good decision. I went through the prosperous-looking village of Lea, crossed a stream, and arrived at St John the Baptist's Church, Dethick.



A little sign by the door told me where to find the key. This was the first church I've unlocked myself! Inside was calm, peaceful, and full of light. There was also a very small organ.



The road back to Lea was lined with daffodils. I crossed Lea Brook on stepping stones, then had a steady climb up through woods and fields.



Looking back towards Dethick


Once I got to the top, I could see the car park at the start of the Cromford Canal through the trees. That was where I was headed. But first, I simply had to sit down and admire the view for a few minutes. The sun was warm, a chiffchaff sang above me, and there was a neat little mound of moss to sit on. Lovely.


Dropping down the hill, I went through a field where a tractor was shovelling heaps of turnips (or something like that) for the sheep. There was a well-maintained path through a small woodland, which dropped out onto a road right next to the River Derwent. The railway crossed the river and road just before Cromford Station.



I went over Cromford Bridge, with its ruined bridge chapel which I'd seen last time. And then I was at Cromford Wharf, the start of the canal. Three miles to Whatstandwell.


The first mile to the High Peak Junction was very busy with dog walkers. I gave up trying to overtake them all, and tried instead to look around and appreciate the slower pace. At High Peak Junction there were plenty of picnic tables (as well as a cafe, toilets, and an old train). I stopped for a bite of lunch.



The crowds thinned out as I continued on past an old warehouse, Leawood Pumphouse ("A marvel of Victorian engineering") and Aqueduct Cottage, which has recently been restored by the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust.





The canal crossed the river and then the railway. Just before Gregory Tunnel I made a short detour down to the Derwent (this is the Derwent Valley Heritage Way after all). The bridge was ugly and functional, but it gave me a good view of the river.

river aqueduct

railway aqueduct

River Derwent


Returning to Cromford Canal, I went through the tunnel and was soon back at the point where I'd left the canal at the start of the walk. From here I simply continued along the towpath back to my car. 

Cromford to Whatstandwell 31 March 2025

8.5 miles / 13.7 km

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