My final walk to wrap up the Churnet Valley Way was a circuit around the town of Leek. The Caldon Canal had taken me to the outskirts, but I felt that Leek deserved a little more exploration. After all, how often do you get to go to a place with the same name as a vegetable?
I started at Ladderedge Country Park, on the south side of town. The first part of the walk was along the canal feeder - a little man-made stream running along the side of the Churnet valley, supplying water to the Caldon Canal.
The canal feeder collects its water from Rudyard Lake. I was tempted to follow it all the way there. But instead I turned right at a path junction and continued along the Churnet Valley Way. This went under a disused railway bridge and dropped me out on the A523 - at the pretty end of town, obviously.
I was interested to see Brindley's Mill, but it turned out to be closed, and rather hemmed in by industrial buildings and supermarkets. At least when I turned a corner I got a view of the water wheel.
Keeping on the Churnet Way, I followed a path to the north of Leek which had the oddest fence I've ever encountered. In an effort to keep it from falling down, someone had fixed planks of wood between the fence and the trees on the opposite side of the path. There was a nice view down a steep slope to a nature reserve, though, and across to the hills beyond.
The path took me to Brough Park. A little waterfall by the lake made a handy boot-washing station. I stripped off my muddy waterproof trousers and attempted to look respectable again, as I was heading towards the town centre.
The church of St Edward the Confessor was a delight. There are two carved crosses outside, a sign welcoming you to "this ancient church" in the porch, and a lovely feeling of peace in the building.
From the church I strolled down to the market place and wandered along some of the shopping streets. I had thought that I could try a Staffordshire oatcake - a pancake-like affair, often filled with cheese or mushrooms - but the Leek Oatcake Shop was closed on Mondays, and I didn't have time to sit in a cafe.
As a consolation, I discovered a grand library - complete with quote by Milton and portraits of Shakespeare, Newton, Reynolds and Tennyson. Upstairs was a small museum where I was startled to be confronted by a wallaby. Apparently the creatures lived wild on the hills of the Roaches for many decades. There was also information about the silk industry in Leek, which brought prosperity to the town in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Finally, I was surprised to learn that the replica of the Bayeux Tapestry displayed in Reading (where I grew up) was actually stitched by the Leek Embroidery Society in 1886. It went on tour, and when it arrived in Reading the then Mayor, Arthur Hill, offered to buy it. Neither the Reading Museum nor the Leek one record how much he paid, or what the ladies of the embroidery society did with the money, but the deal was done, and the tapestry has lived in Reading ever since.
Heading south now, I discovered Lady o' th' Dale well on the edge of a housing estate. I ate my lunch (without oatcakes) in a cemetery, and followed the line of the old railway, which runs between the cattle market and an industrial estate.
I had hoped to get across to the canal aqueduct, but the Churnet Valley Railway is extending its operations to Leek, and has reclaimed a section of track. I found myself on the wrong side of the railway, the river, and the canal. The only option was to retrace my steps, cross the industrial estate, and walk along the A53.
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| bonus giraffe! |
After that miserable bit of walking, I had to treat myself to a quick climb up the hill in Ladderedge Country Park before I got back in the car. The sky never did brighten up, but it wasn't a bad view.
I still feel like Leek deserves a little more exploration, but that will have to do for now. I was pleased to finish my Churnet Valley Way diversion by the end of the year. 2025 will see me back on the Limestone Way, heading for Matlock.
16 December 2024
7.3 miles, 11.8 km
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