Every morning, a little purple train comes underneath the railway bridge at Findern. The signal beyond the bridge turns green, with a line of white lights pointing to the right. The train shimmies across the main track and turns on to the branch line. Usually, I am watching from the bridge, imagining the train going over the canal, negotiating the level crossing, and continuing on its way west.
This morning, I am on the train.
Back when I was walking along the River Dove, I crossed the North Staffordshire Railway line almost as many times as I crossed the river. One day, I told myself, I will get that little purple train from Derby to Uttoxeter and see all this again.
I had thought of the line as rather sleepy, but in fact the train is quite busy. I find a seat by the window and start to eagerly track the landmarks. The man opposite must wonder why I am taking blurry photos of damp level crossings, but he doesn't comment. The only picture which comes out well is a splash of rainbow in the clouds.
At Uttoxeter, I leave the train. "Alight here for Alton Towers and Uttoxeter Racecourse" says the sign. The racecourse is right next to the station, but you would have to get a bus to the theme park. There is a nice mural showing some of the other attractions along the line.
I have plotted a route which only has two short field sections. Hopefully these won't be too muddy - I'm wearing waterproof shoes, but not boots, as I want to go to a cafe later. The first part goes along the Staffordshire Way. I'm following one of those old tracks which has had modern housing estates built around it as the town has grown.
Soon I reach the first field. The ground is covered in a layer of water, but it's solid underneath. I'm in no danger of sinking up to my ankles in mud. A couple of winter trees stand sentinel, and some cows amble by.
Now I'm on the high ground south of Uttoxeter, looking back down over the town. The church spire is clearly visible.
I walk along a nice country lane, then have to dodge fast traffic on a bit of B-road. There's a new housing estate being built at the bottom, which at least means there is some pavement. And a weird kind of stone circle affair, made out of gateposts.
Crossing the A518, I pass several signs reminding me to take poo bags home rather than hang them on the stile. Sometimes I'm glad I don't have a dog! The second field is wet but walkable. I see the North Staffordshire Line in front of me, with a level crossing, and have just a moment to think, "well, that was easy," before I end up in a lake.
Great. The one flooded part, just as I thought I was safe. I teeter across on some bits of wood, cross the railway, and sit on a lion to eat an early lunch.
The aptly named Holly Road takes me across to an area of Uttoxeter known as The Wharf. This is where the Uttoxeter Canal used to end. The canal has all been built on, but part of the railway, which replaced the canal, has been turned into a footpath. I like the crossing-gates.
The drizzle has turned into proper rain now. I cross a soggy park and get a sudden strong scent of sugar - as if I was walking past a doughnut stall. I can't see where it is coming from, but a sign in the town centre gives me the answer. Elkes biscuit factory is just around the corner. According to their website, they invented the Malted Milk biscuit in 1924, and make over 30 000 tonnes of biscuits a year!
I look into St Mary's Church. It's a large church, but I'm wary of tracking mud across the carpets, so I stick to the bit of stone floor near the back. There's a big Christmas tree up, and decorations on the window sills.
Outside in the market square, this piece of public art puzzles me. Then I come closer and realise the black bollard isn't part of the original design! It's next to a memorial to the 18th-century writer Samuel Johnson, who stood in the rain in Uttoxeter as an act of penance for once refusing to mind his father's bookstall there.
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| solar system with extra bollard |
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| Johnson memorial |
As I can't think of anything to do penance for right now, I decide not to emulate Dr Johnson. Instead I head to Saddlers Yard Cafe to sit somewhere dry and warm. The cafe is decorated for Christmas and filled with a happy hum of conversations. I order a luxury hot chocolate. Mmm! Marshmallows!
It's not far back to the train station for my return to Derby. Right on time, here comes the little purple train again.
By a total fluke, I manage to get a beautiful shot of the sun reflecting in the River Dove as the train crosses the bridge.
And by further coincidence, I am writing this blog on the date of Samuel Johnson's yearly commemoration in the Church of England - 13th December. So here he is: stood in the rain in Uttoxeter without his hat.
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| Wikimedia Commons |
Around Uttoxeter 5.2 miles / 8.4 km
2 December 2024
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